The main dish was brasato di bue (braised beef), which accompanied a good Bordeaux-quality red from Naples. The 2001 Aglianico Serpico Feudi di San Gregorio ($75) had deep notes of bell pepper and leather, and showed sharp tannins. The bottle should mellow nicely over the coming years, and could be cellared for up to a decade. Speaking of cellaring, the 2000 Gattinara Tre Vigne Travaglini ($48) served with the cheese plate definitely needs to lie down longer. Made entirely from Nebbiolo grapes, the wine was tight and tannic.

The event ended on a sweet note literally. A Sauternes like late-harvest dessert wine, the 2001 Privilegio ($50) provided a lovely nightcap. This wine is a pure pleasure.

And with that, I'll sign off. After the orgiastic holiday season, I swore to be good and cut down on rich foods and decadent wines in 2006. Well, there are always next year's resolutions. Drink in good health!

Joel M. Fisher Ph.D writes a monthly column for the Chefs de Cuisine Association of California and has been the wine instructor for the Culinary Arts Department, Art Institute of California-Los Angeles. He is Director of Public Affairs for Avalon Hollywood, and as a partner in WineVineandDine conducts wine tastings, wine dinners, and wine-and-food pairings throughout Southern California. His email address is joel@winevineanddine.com

Sara Fisher-Chapin fought the enophile gene for as long as she could, but gracefully caved almost a decade ago. She's interested in making wine more accessible to the Gen X and under crowd.

This Feb.- March 2006 article published in Culinary Connection is re-published here by permission.